By Curtis Penner, EAA 1103560
Nearly 10 million people arrived in the Bahamas via cruise ship last year. If conspicuous consumption, crowds, and casinos align with your concept of an authentic Bahamas experience, you can stop reading now and skip to the next story.
On the other hand, if quiet, secluded, rural islands with Nassau’s climate, beaches, currency, and language, but diametrically opposite in every other way appeal, the jewels of the archipelago, the Out (or Family) Islands are for you. Only 340,387 saw this part of the Bahamas in 2024 by private aircraft — the only practical way to experience “the most beautiful place from space” according to astronaut Scott Kelly…but it is equally as spectacular from 1000 feet.
If you have a pilot’s license, and especially if you own an airplane, the Bahamas are within reach — closer than you may have thought!
Benefits
- The Mesmerizing Caribbean Tapestry of iridescent turquoise, emerald, and aquamarine cannot be described with mere adjectives. These gems must be seen to be believed.
- Island Hopping. This pilot’s paradise is a perfect bucket list trip. After landing at a baker’s dozen, I’m still less than halfway through the 30-plus public GA airports scattered over 700 islands and 2,000 cays.
- Weather. Shorts, T-shirts, and sandals versus toques, parkas, and boots??… That’s easy!
- Beachcombing. Conch shells are piled by the truckload next to the fishing piers. Take as many as you want (but clean with bleach to satisfy customs).
- Relaxed Solitude. White or pink, powdery or coarse; whatever sand is your favourite, you have miles and miles of it to yourself. A number of runways are just a few steps from a deserted beach, unlike the ‘private’ cruise ship cay overrun with Tiki bars and beach chairs that we overflew. Rent a boat and go fishing, diving, snorkelling, or cruise the shoreline…wherever you want. Switch to “island time” …there is no rush to get to “the spot” before the crowds.
- Stargazing. With no urban light pollution, the night sky is full of stars not normally visible to the majority of mainland residents. It’s an entirely different kind of night life out here!
- Unique Sights & Experiences. At the Glass Bridge, 30 feet separates smooth, shallow, turquoise Caribbean water from the deep blue Atlantic. Free diving mecca Dean’s Blue Hole boasts a depth of 663 feet and visibility of 200 feet. Wrecks, abandoned plantations, and swimming pigs are all worthy of your time.
- History. From Columbus’ first landing on San Salvador in 1492 to the first permanent British settlement on Eleuthera in 1647, many of Bahamas’ origins are rooted in the Out Islands
Best Planning Guides
- Pilot’s Guide published by AOPA is the most comprehensive guide $39.95
- Pilot’s Guide published by the Bahamas Tourist Office is less detailed (but free)
- VFR Flight Planning Chart — Bahamas Tourist Office
- “Flying Your Plane to the Bahamas” Guide & Checklist from Banyan Pilot Shop
Guidebook Oversights
While it’s true that the best stories have their origins in bad decisions, planning for items pilot guides miss will improve your chances of a hassle-free adventure.
1) Fuel Is Expensive! Fuel costs “similar to south Florida” is almost At the time of our trip, prices in rural Florida were around $4.50, Fort Lauderdale and Miami metro areas averaged $6.50, and the Keys were at $8.50. In the Bahamas, prices were similar to those in the Keys, PLUS 10% VAT, 5% credit card fee, and 10% VAT on the credit card charge, resulting in a total cost of very close to $10.00.
2) Crosswinds. Most airports in the Bahamas are oriented north-south while the prevailing island breezes are east-west. It can blow pretty hard, so be comfortable with crosswinds.
3) WhatsApp. By far the most common means of communication in the Bahamas. Texts and emails are often not returned.
4) Limited Selection. Every coin has a flip side. The quiet, secluded, rural solitude has a price. Almost everything comes in by weekly supply boat, so selection for things like groceries and restaurant menu items are often very limited, with correspondingly high prices.
5) Intermittent Connectivity. Internet service is not always available, so we were unable to use credit cards sometimes for fuel, food, cars, and customs fees. Personnel were usually very accommodating and billed items to my card a day later, but it’s a good idea to carry extra cash if you are uncomfortable leaving your credit card number behind. Cash is king.
6) Cruising Permit (C7A) You need to show this every time you arrive at another airport with customs facilities to avoid paying your inbound fees again, and you need at least one to turn in when you leave the Bahamas. They don’t always get returned to you as you travel, so carry extra copies. That said, Bahamian customs officials have a pretty laid-back attitude about things, and I would expect they would be pretty flexible.
7) Insect Repellent. The idyllic long walks on the beach also have a flip side, as some host sand flies. For those of you unfamiliar with the misery caused by this bug, its bites are not noticed at the time, but they cause extreme itchiness for a week afterwards. Thankfully I was immune to this pestilence.
8) Ramp Considerations. Anchor cables were common, but there are no ropes or chocks to be found. As well, take care when doing runups, as the surface often has loose gravel.
9) Car Rental. Budget and Avis don’t have a presence. You will rent from a local whose vehicle(s) probably would not meet mainland standards. Most were very pleasant to work with, although one charged a $40 airport drop fee and another $40 for picking it up again (plus 10% VAT and 5% credit card and 10% VAT on the credit card fee). Cost was around $90/day for a small SUV.
10) Parts, Repairs, & Maintenance.Something as simple as pumping up a low tire or adding a quart of oil can be inconvenient, as there are no tools or service available. We carried a small battery powered air compressor, some basic tools, and extra oil…and used them all. Be prepared.
11) Accommodations. We rented beachfront houses for three-day stays on a number of different islands through VRBO or Airbnb. This was a great option for our group of four.
12) Hurricane Impact. Dorian’s eye hit Abaco September 1, 2019. As a result, there are very few tall trees left standing and fires (and smoke) from deadfall were commonplace, impacting the quality of our stay here. One big fire was adjacent to the airport ramp, so we had to move aircraft to safety. No firefighting efforts were observed anywhere.
13) Charter/Small Airline Options. The ladies in our group were not interested in single engine ocean flight from Florida. They chose commercial flights to the Out Islands and then enjoyed the inter-island flights in our airplane as they were never far from land. Incidentally, we arrived back home in Canada with the RV-10 well ahead of their airline flight 🙂 Inter-island charters are available, but they are VERY expensive.
14) EAPIS Hints. File both outbound and inbound at the same time. Generally, outbound to the Bahamas is no hassle and low-key. Things are much more demanding when returning. File a flight plan (DVFR or IFR), call U.S. customs at your airport of entry on the East Coast at least one hour before arrival. Give them your eAPIS, tail number, ETA, and identification. Ask for custom’s officer’s code. Write it down.
15) Safety. Buy your own (comfortable) suspender style life jacket. If you are going to rent anything, it should be a life raft. It will be less expensive at somewhere other than an FBO. A satellite tracker/PLB is non-negotiable. Practice ditching procedures — it’s survivable here.
16) Customs Binder. Island hopping requires the same forms and identification over and over. To save time, put them together so you can grab and go.
17) Database Currency. My GPS navigator has its database split between north and south portions, and as we travelled the 2,000 miles from Canada to south Florida, we had to switch memory cards. Make sure you have data coverage for the entire route, including the Bahamas.
The Bahamas Out Islands was a destination worthy of my bucket list, and I encourage you to put them on yours. Exotic…but accessible. A different country…but the same language and currency. Stunning, unsoiled, and untouched tropical islands…but with paved runways, beach houses, and friendly people. The Out Islands of the Bahamas are within reach — much closer than you may have thought!
Words are sadly inadequate, pictures are worth a thousand words, and video comes closest to reliving the experience. The video of our trip can be seen here.