By Jonathan B. Bell
Combining two of my interests in one of the most remote parts of the world presented an inevitable opportunity: to fly cross-country in a single-engine land aircraft and land/take off on one of the original World War II runways. Flying and history converges to fulfill dreams for the aviation enthusiast here in the U.S. territories of Guam and the Commonwealth of the Northern Mariana Islands (CNMI). Reading Tinian and the Bomb by Don Farrell, a resident and historian in Tinian, also inspired me to plan a trip in a Piper Archer with two of my friends who happen to be commercial pilots with thousands more hours than me.
Comprehending the enormous historical significance while viewing beautiful islands from above provided a unique opportunity I could not refuse. We departed Won Pat International Airport (PGUM) on September 16, 2022, from Runway 24L (10,014 x 150 feet) on a 112-mile journey bound for Saipan International (PGSN). Flying in the same month 77 years after the Second World War concluded offered a special treat. Cruising at 5,500 feet provided some of the best seascapes of the North Pacific as we passed over Rota and Tinian en route to our first full stop in Saipan to clear customs. After a quick 20-minute stop, we piled in again and departed for a 10-minute hop over to Tinian North Field to conduct a scan and ensure a clear runway prior to landing on Baker. While the runway looked clear, we prepared for a soft-field landing since the surface was composed of gravel and the occasional weed. The U.S. military keeps it cleared of jungle vegetation through a local bush-cutting contract. Setting the Archer down softly on the original 8,000-foot runway was certainly a thrill.
After exiting and securing the airplane, a quick scan of the area surrounding the runways revealed excessive jungle and overgrown vegetation. But during the war from 1944-45, it was packed with hundreds of B-29s, support vehicles, and buildings. The northern half of Tinian included an organized and well-maintained road system named after some of the major thoroughfares of New York City. It also included super-secretive shelters where scientists and engineers assembled the two atomic bombs, Little Boy and Fat Man. Today, anyone visiting Tinian can tour this same area, which is now a national historic landmark and is open to the public. Visitors can even view copies of the original pictures taken of these bombs at the exact same sites where they were loaded into the bellies of the B-29 Superfortresses named Enola Gay and Bockscar. Other sites in this area include the runways, taxiways, original Japanese air raid shelters, and the old Imperial Japanese Air Force headquarters building.
We easily burned through an hour’s worth of walking around, taking several pictures and absorbing the historical significance of this hallowed ground where U.S. innovation eventually forced the Imperial Japanese to surrender. Despite our desire to stay longer, we checked the weather on my phone’s flight planning application with a couple of bars worth of signal and loaded back up into the Archer for our return trip. While avoiding some heavy rain, we landed safely back at Won Pat International airport in Guam.
Notwithstanding the obvious appeal of historic and general aviation flying amongst the islands wedged between the Pacific Ocean and Philippine Sea, I encountered bureaucratic hurdles that many fellow pilots have suffered before me. These requirements for travel between Guam and CNMI include customs checks, manifests, landing approvals several days in advance, and coordination with the U.S. military. Don’t be surprised with the potential for a “bio check” to make sure the airplane is not carrying the non-native brown tree snake, which took out much of Guam’s indigenous birds several years ago.
If you are so inclined to fly the same route, please coordinate well in advance with U.S. Customs, Guam Customs, and Joint Region Marianas to make sure you have a solid plan. And check those NOTAMs of course. One of the main reasons I write this article is to raise awareness and generate greater interest in general aviation in this region. Unfortunately, flying between two U.S. territories does not equate to the same experience as transiting between other states in the continental United States where you can cross borders freely without lots of paperwork or even a pre-approved landing request. I hope to seek a way in which both governments of Guam and CNMI could streamline the process for general aviation pilots and U.S. passengers to transit amongst these beautiful islands without feeling like foreigners. If you find yourself with the urge to visit, I highly recommend doing it now as tourism opens back up post-COVID and try to experience all that these islands and people have to offer. You won’t regret it!